I didn’t have a lot of time to work today (Thursday night 4/20), but I did manage to get the rib templates glued down to the 1/4″ layup. Spray glue worked really well.
I finished the drawer and got them mounted in the night stand boxes.
I cut two drawer blanks from 4/4 Black Walnut.
Today I printed the rib templates and got them trimmed and taped together. I had the chance to get one rib cut out.
I rough cut out a piece from the 1/4″ stock, then lay the HRB1 template on it and sprayed a light coat of paint. I was left with a nice silhouette to cut out on the band saw.
After cutting I sanded the edges smooth.
The result was perfect, but it took a long time to cut out the small piece with a knife and paint it. Tomorrow I will make the spar template and then spray glue them all directly to the laminate. I thin I can get all the spars and ribs for both vertical and horizontal stabilizers and elevator from this one piece.
Today Jett went for his Tiger Brown and Journey went for her senior green belts.
Jett was one of the best in the class. He kept his fighting under control and was able to do everything easily.
Journey did well in her form, but struggled with her contact skills. In sparring she was aggressive, but wasn’t using advanced striking.
I just finished the reverse side 1/4 foam that will become the spars and ribs. This time I mixed my micro super thick and spread it really thin. This made us easier to get it flat and I feel helped avoid bubbles under the BID.
I again used the bias cut method for cutting the BID recommended in the manual. It worked great and the key was how I rolled up the fabric after cutting it. The first piece I rolled with the longest edge exposed and unrolled it along the 24″ length of the foam. The second piece I rolled with the angle cut edge exposed and laid it on the first to get the proper overlap and unrolled it diagonally. I left the pieces untrimmed and I’ll cut the excess off after cure. I used a lot of extra resin, spread it gently very thick and gave it time to soak in before working it in to the BID in two directions along the weave and removing excess.
Tonight marks the start of the KR-Super2 build. I completed glassing the first side of a 2’x4′ 1/4″ Last-a-foam panel and one side of two 3/8″ panels for h-stab skins. Work was done according to Chapter 2 as per instructions.
I was initially going to use Ecopoxy for this build because it was described as odorless and non-toxic and ok for structural parts. I purchased a gallon kit. Later I became worried that is may not be a good substitute. Aircraft Spruce was not able to provide a mechanical properties of the Ecopoxy resin system and I also read that the Aeropoxy does not contain the cancer causing substance MDA and is tested by Rutan for all structural use. I switched back to the Aeropoxy. Ordered a gallon kit from Spruce 3pm Thursday and it showed up 5pm Friday with UPS ground. Not bad. That allowed me to get started tonight.
All-in, tonight’s work used about 1/4-1/3 of a 1 gallon kit. About $30-40 worth of resin.
I cut the BID for the first two sheets as per instructions. The final piece I straight cut. When following the instructions I only had the small triangles as waste. Straight cut definitely has more waste, but the large leftover rectangle can be used elsewhere in the future. The bias cut method proved very hard to keep the cloth weave aligned as I was rolling out the cut sheets on the micro’ed foam. It took forever to get the weave aligned again. The overlap of the two pieces of cloth is also heavier. For future glassing, I think I’ll stick to straight cut and accept the waste to make a better, light part in less time.
Mixing station set up. I would pour out the amount of resin needed, weigh it. Divide that by 100 and multiply by 27. That gave the exact weight of hardener to weigh out. Tonight’s project used about 1/4-1/3 of the Aeropoxy that came today.
My first attempt at mixing micro. It was a bit hard to spread. I mixed subsequent batches thicker and it spread on much easier.
Edit – the next time I mixed the micro 1:1 by volume with catalyze resin and this consistency was much easier to work with.
Edit – the next time I used my yellow plastic squeegee to spread micro. Though it’s smaller, it seemed to work much better and faster.
I did the 3/8 panels with two glass pieces cut at a 45 degree angle. This was much less wasteful on the glass, but hard to align the two pieces of cloth to get the right overlap while keeping the weave pattern intact.
Total time start to finish, about 4 hours.
Last night I got all the veneer on inside and out and sanding done. I was able to finishe up the night with a coat of tung oil for color. Above shows with and without oil. I oiledboth and let dry overnight.
Tonight I got to work on the polyurethane. I use this Varahane product that’s actually for floors.
It’s self leveling , so it can be brushed on and still dries smooth. I’ll hog it 3 coats and then sand smooth with 220 grit and then one more coat on top. I would normally do 3 coats, sand, 3 coats, sand, 3 coats, polish, however, my wife says that results in a look that’s like plastic. She’s right in that it would be glossy smooth with no grain texture. So I stop early in that process to leave a more wood-like look.
The bottom is the one with the broken flange and appears to be a 95 head (yay!) while the top is a 98/102 head (hmmm). Both looked ok aside of the flange. Well, if I don’t get the heads I want from the second motor, I can always machine the combustion chambers to match.
The next surprise came from the #3 con rod big end. It looked as though it only had one bearing. Surprise! What really happened was that the bearings were so worn that one rolled around behind the other! Even with that I might be able to save the rod.
One of these things is not like the other… with all the pistons out, it was obvious that #6 was different. I don’t know what the original pistons looked like. There’s no way for me to tell if #6 had been replaced or if all 5 others had been replaced. One this was for sure, this motor had a hard life.
With the basic bed in place in time for the mattress delivery, I’ve had some time to slack off. None the less, I started building the night stand portion of the bed. These are floating units that attach to the headboard with through bolts to anchor plates on the back. The box will be half filled with a drawer and then an open shelf on the bottom for chargers.
Sides trimmed, sander and ready for assembly. At this point I should have put the veneer on the inside. It proved to be kind of a pain later.
I Bondoed and sanded the back side too. I want it to sit flat against the headboard, no gaps. Veneer goes on with contact cement. I usually work at night, so I trim the edges with a razor blade to keep the noise down.
That’s as far as I got today.
To be continued…