After I pulled my last set of ribs out of the flange molds, I haven’t had a lot of time to work on them. So I started trimming the flanges a little bit here and there as I had time. I found a hack saw blade works really well for this.
I flanges 4 more ribs tonight. 2x HRIB1, HRIB2, HRIB3
I had done a bubble repair on HRIB3 previously, but I didnt fill the bubble with micro. I sanded out the bubble, cleaned the surface and glassed over the divot. This left an indentation about the size of a nikle. I wasn’t happy with the indenation on the rib and I wasn’t sure of the reduction in strength. Since this repair was already dry, I filled the divot with micro and glasses over the top so the rib, once again had a flat surface.
I put two layers of BID on each side of the Spar joint and repaired a bubble.
I sanded through the layer of BID on top of the bubble with 60 grit being careful on to disturb the foam and roughed up the area 1″ around. I filled the void on top of the foam with micro and cleaned any excess from the surrounding glass.
As usual I laid up the glass between plastic. I put one layer of BID over the micro and stippled it smooth.
After it was gelled this morning, I trimmed the excess with a knife. I also marked any of their bubble with a pencil so they could be repaired later. Before repairing them, I will lay out and cut the hard point for the elevator. There’s no point in repairing them if they just get removed for a hard point. The pencil makes them obvious so I won’t miss them later.
The last couple nights I’ve spent an hour here and there making the flange jigs for the horizontal stabilizer ribs and sanding the rough cut ribs to match the blue prints.
I used white glue on the first jig and it worked ok. The Gorilla Glue recommended was really the best and I glued all the rest of the jigs using that.
I used 2″ staples to hold the foam in place while drying.
After measuring, I found the 8 layers of duct tape put the flange spacing right at 5/16″, so I used 8 layers on all jigs.
HRIB4 with angle sanded on the end to match the sweep of the hstab leading edge. On right and one left.
Tonight I layed out the long H Stab and V Stab parts and got them glued down and cut out all the parts. Time, about 2 hours.
I just loosely cut out this template in the interest of time and it actually ended up making it easier to see the line when I was cutting them out.
Today Jett went for his Tiger Brown and Journey went for her senior green belts.
Jett was one of the best in the class. He kept his fighting under control and was able to do everything easily.
Journey did well in her form, but struggled with her contact skills. In sparring she was aggressive, but wasn’t using advanced striking.
I’ve owned a Lincoln Weldpack 100 for some time now. Since day 1 I have always wished it could be a MIG welder. Inner shield is cheap and can make good welds. But comes at a price. It’s basically stick welding, so it’s messy. But if you do it right the slag falls off and a shiny weld is what’s underneath. Then you spend the next 10 minutes cleaning off you part. No longer!
110v 60hz gas solenoid – Amazon, $14
1/4″ clear tube – Lowes about $1
1/4 bard x 1/4NPT – Lowes $5
1/4 NPT Brass street elbow – Lowes $5
1/4″ spade crimp connectors – free from my spare parts stock
Tiny hose clamps – free from spare parts stock
0.030″ contact tip – internet 12pack $5
1/2″ Gas nozzle – internet $2
Screws for gas solenoid – free spare stock
CO2 regulator – Harbor Freight $27, this one sucked. Get it from Amazon for less and buy the adapter
I started by crimping my spade connectors to the solenoid. Then I used a paper to make a rubbing of the mounting bolt pattern on the solenoid.
I attached the spade connectors to the control board and hooked up the gas in and out lines. I also had to reverse the positive and ground leads to the gun.